Morning Warmth

Yesterday as I was waking up over my cappuccino and brioche I watched a fairly typical scene go down between the barista and a member of his older clientele. Little Italian Grandma paid her 85cents for her morning espresso and as she carefully pocketed her change, shuffled over to a display of chewing gum. She picked up a pack and studied it carefully. “Yesterday I bought this exact same gum. Not for me. For my son. I bought this exact same one at a store and paid 40 cents more for it. FORTY CENTS! That’s not nothing, you know!” “I know,” replied the barista, “and did you know that in the city center you can easily pay 3 Euros for a cappuccino and brioche.” Both sigh and shake their heads.

I have just started working at one of Italy’s top food and wine stores, which includes eight restaurants and a café designed after the gorgeous historical Turin cafes: dark wood floors and walls, creamy counters, vintage Vermouth posters and perhaps some of Italy’s best pastries to boot. Even though, I still prefer to have breakfast at the shabbier, but perhaps more neighborly cafe across the street. I like how the barista tells me to hold on a sec for the pastries that are in the oven if he sees that the type I had yesterday is already gone. Or how the milk man calmly double parks out front on the busy city street to bring in the day’s order and then proceeds to leisurely enjoy his espresso. No problem. Meanwhile a young lady plays her luck and part of her weekly salary on the video games over my shoulder and an older man and a younger North African immigrant have coffee together and I wonder what their relation is.

When I am home in the U.S. and people ask me about my favorite things in Italy, I think they are often surprised when I answer the cafes. Most mornings I just eat my oats at home, but on the occasions when P and I go out for our coffee and pastry, well I just feel an extra little boost getting out of bed, like a kid on her birthday. Sure I appreciate the elegant or edgy cafes where the foam in your cappuccino is frothy enough to build a dream on, but it’s the cafe just out the door down on the street corner that really makes me happy to be waking up in Italy. And that’s not nothing, you know.

Best Little Cafes

I'm in Milan for work over the next few days and happily booked myself into the same, humble 2 star hotel from last year (think bathroom that doubles as a shower. All in one.) just because it is right down the street from one of my favorite cafes in all of Italy. Now anyone who knows me, knows how strongly I believe that French croissants are far superior to Italian brioche. Sure they look strikingly similar, but one taste and there is no comparison. Apologies to my Italian readers. BUT, I was so happily surprised when I bit into my first brioche at Pasticceria Moriondo last year. Sure it isn't a croissant, but it holds its own and even more. Plus they serve up a beautiful cappuccino and after one visit know your order the second you walk in. What more could you ask for? I cannot wait to wake up for breakfast tomorrow!

On a side note, I'm taking advantage of the big city life and just treated myself to a Chinese dinner and a brownie for dessert. Wheee!!!

Pasticceria Moriondo
Via Marghera, 10
20149 Milan
02 48005643

Best Little Cafes

When this is happening outside....

cozy up to a little table here...

and warm yourself, inside and out with one of these.

In a city known for its sprawling piazzas and noble cafes, Caffe' Bicerin is found humbly tucked away in a small corner of Turin. Run only by women, (historically women weren't welcomed in cafes. Decent women, that is. As a result, this cafe was a haven for them.) the cafe serves up the finest version of the coffee drink by the same name.

This isn't a snack people, so don't even think of downing one an hour or two before your next big meal. These pack enough punch to keep you going all day long. Starbucks ain't got nothin' on the bicerin.

Espresso
Bitter, dark chocolate

Fresh cream

P.S. The zabaione is pretty life-changing too!

Caffe' al Bicerin
Piazza della Consolata, 5
Turin, Italy
+39 011 4369325

Le Meilleur, I

First days back to work after a little Parisian getaway and all my co-workers have been asking if I visited the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre. "No," I reply, "this trip was all about eating!" (ok, maybe a whee bit of shopping too.)

Not ones to mess around when it comes to meals, especially when time is limited, we ladies did our research and arrived hungry and armed with this itinerary:

I know, I know, seems a bit rigid for vacation, but there were just so many places to visit and so little time! And I must say that our planning really paid off. Not a single meal was disappointing, and in recounting the trip, I find myself saying more than may be acceptable for a 4 day vacation, "And then we had the best _______!"

So, if you are off to Paris and in search of the following treats, may you look no further.

Oysters

Wheee!! So French, so fun! I happened upon Huitrerie Regis two years ago when I was in Paris and instantly fell in love with the little hole in the wall. In fact I meandered by, staring longingly into the window so many times that I definitely started getting some sideways glances thrown my way. But just look at it! How could you not love it?

The crisp white interior smells rightly of the sea and seats a maximum of 14 people, so either arrive early or knock back a glass or two of Champagne at the cafe across the way and wait for a table to free up. Once seated, snuggled up to the stranger at your elbow, your dinner choices are...you guessed it, oysters! Ok, so there are clams and steamed shrimp on the menu too, but this is an oyster place people. We ordered a dozen each, (six of two varieties) and the guys come with some delish bread and butter. Once we finished off our Sancerre and coffee (there is a popular apple tart on the menu too) we left more than satisfied and poised to take on the ever-so-rich foods that awaited us further down our itinerary.

Well done Jenn.

Falafel

The next time you're in Paris, I definitely suggest heading over to the Marais for some lunch and a stroll. Located in the heart of the district, Rue Des Rosiers is a Jewish street lined with bakeries, shops and koscher restaurants (a real treat and change from country Italian life for B and me). Our mission here? L'As du Falafel.

You can either buy your falafel at the curbside window (it seems that there is always a line at lunch, but it moves quickly - don't get discouraged!) or eat inside the modest restaurant. Whatever you do, you are guaranteed what is in my book the best falafel out there. The fried chickpea fritters are smaller than usual, slightly sweet and deliciously crunchy on the outside. What puts L'As head and shoulders above the competition is what comes stuffed inside your pita - pickled red cabbage, yogurt sauce, cucumber swords, big ol' pieces of lightly fried eggplant and perfectly heated harissa on the side. Don't be afraid to slather it on, it is mild enough that you won't regret it later.

How gorgeous is that?

Stamp of approval

Crepes

One of the strongest food memories I have is when I ate my first crepe in Paris. I was 20 years old, it was my first night in Paris, and my dear friend Colleen and I had bought them from a street vendor next to the Sacre Coeur. Biting into the warm Nutella-filled blanket on that cold winter's night, with the glowing city spread out below us, it was one of those perfect moments that stays with you and continues to warm you from within, years later. Even now when I visit Paris I like to buy one from the street vendors, and for a moment revisit what will always be one of the happiest times in my life.

But, if we are going to talk about crepes, then we must speak of Breizh Cafe where we had the crepes to end all crepes.

Yes!!

The focus here is on the quality of the ingredients - organic buckwheat flour and one of my favorite butters, Bordier. The galettes are gorgeous and beg you to stick to the traditional offerings - ham, Gruyere, and a fried egg. Or as B had, a sublime Breton galette with mushrooms, bacon and creme fraiche.

As awe-inspiring as lunch was, it was dessert that left me speechless. A simple butter and sugar crepe = perfection. I know it sounds easy enough and maybe even a bit boring, but again, the quality of the ingredients shines here, as well as the artful hand of the chef. I am sure if I tried to recreate this at home, it would fall embarrassingly short and probably end up overly buttered (if such a problem does exist) or crunchy from a heavy shower of sugar.

The Cafe of My Dreams

Laduree. Few things in Paris make me happier than breakfast here. I love everything about it, from the jewel-like pastries displayed just-so, to the elegant, yet whimsical dining room. And of course the croissants.

Huitrerie Regis
3 rue de Montfaucon
Paris, 75006
01-44-41-10-07

L'As du Falafel
34, rue des Rosiers
Paris
01-48-87-63-60

Breizh Cafe

109 Rue Vieille du Temple

Paris, 75003
01-42-72-13-77

Laduree
Several locations